DESTINATION: HANA

Heaven meets the earth in Hana. According to Hawaiian legend, a demigod stood on the crest of Kauiki, a cinder cone that guards Hana Bay, and thrust his spear through the heavens, creating a doorway to Hana.

In ancient times, Hana was a bustling community. Thousands of Hawaiians lived along the coastline. It was so isolated from the rest of the island, it even had its own chieftains.

Hana’s proximity to the Big Island of Hawaii also made it important to Maui’s warrior chiefs as an important strategic point, where attacks could be launched at Hawaii — and where attacks from Hawaii could be repelled.

This almost constant state of war explains why so many heiau exist along the Hana coast. The heiaus were not just built as places of worship; they were also built as battle monuments.

In the mid-1800s, sugar cane was introduced to the Hana area, but the last plantation closed down shortly after World War II. The population shrank as people left Hana to find employment elsewhere.

The road to Hana is almost as famous as Hana itself. It winds over 52 miles, 617 curves, and 56 bridges, many of which are only one lane wide. The natural wonders unfold as you drive past cascading waterfalls, over deep valleys, and through tropical jungles. During some times of the year, wild ginger blooms alongside the road, providing an intoxicating scent to compliment the intoxicating sights.

Two miles out of Paia is Hookipa Beach, the reason why Paia has become the gathering place for the world’s windsurfers. Hookipa is considered to be the best windsurfing spot in the world. There are very few days where you won’t see colorful sails fluttering in the surf offshore.

Keep your eyes on the mile markers planted along the road. Once you pass mile marker 16, you’ve reached the start of the real road to Hana. From here, the road gets narrower, and curvier. And something unusual occurs; the next mile marker after mile marker 16 starts over at zero. Keep this in mind as you read the directions below.

A half-mile past mile marker 9, you’ll see an unmarked turnoff, and a metal turnstile. The turnstile is the beginning of a trail that lets you explore this location, called the Waikamoi Ridge. This is one of the few public trails on Maui, and it is one of the best ways to see Maui’s rich jungle plant life.

A bit further down the road, underneath a white bridge, is the Waikamoi Stream. A water fountain near the bridge constantly flows with sweet spring water. While the water from this fountain is safe, you should not drink water from any of the waterfalls or pools.

Puohokamoa Stream is located directly next to mile marker 11. A trail next to the bridge here leads through thick forest down to a pool at the base of a waterfall, and a miniature picnic ground that thankfully includes a covered table in case the rain begins to fall.

Just past mile marker 12 is the Kaumahina State Wayside Park. The park overlooks the beautiful Keanae Peninsula, and includes a picnic area and restrooms.

About two-tenths of a mile past mile marker 16, you’ll see an aluminum gate in front of a trail. This trail leads to the Keanae Arborertum. Here, you can view many of Maui’s native plants with identification labels.

A sign will steer you on the road down to the Keanae Peninsula. This sleepy town consists of a few homes, some large taro patches, and the Keanae Congregational Church, built in 1860.

Puaa Kaa State Wayside Park is past mile marker 22. There are two small waterfalls, and restrooms — the last you’ll find until you reach Hana.

The Nahiku area, near mile marker 25, has a unique history. It became the first rubber plantation in the United States during the early 1900s. The location was too remote and the labor was too costly, so the plantation came to a quick end.

Hana Lava Tube, at the 31 mile marker, is a world-class volcanic show-cave. Now open to the public for the first time ever, you can experience a forgotten world, shrouded in mystery, and preserved untouched in absolute darkness under the Hana rainforest for thirty thousand years! Reservations are required for this event. A great family adventure. Call (808) 248-7308.

Waianapanapa State Park is a great location on the road to Hana. This park has a black sand beach, a trail that leads to a heiau and a freshwater cave.

A princess hid in the cave with her handmaiden, trying not to be found by her wicked husband. He found her, and killed both she and her handmaiden. When the water turns red in the cave, this is said to be her blood. It’s actually millions of tiny red shrimp that breed in the waters of the cave.

Hana town is very small; don’t drive too fast or you’ll be leaving town before you know it. Beneath the shadow of Kauiki Hill, native children swim and play in the dark waters of Hana Bay. Legend has it that a commoner, Kauiki, fell in love with a princess, Noenoe. Their love was considered forbidden by the people. A god took pity on the lovers and turned the princess Noenoe into a light, misty rain, and Kauiki into a hill. Even today, in the early morning you can see a misty rain on the brow of Kauiki Hill.

PAST HANA TO KIPAHULU AND BEYOND

Beyond Hana are several small villages, including the villages of Kipahulu and Kaupo.

When the Europeans first arrived in 1778, the picturesque lands of Hana, Kipahulu, and Kaupo were the most densely populated anywhere in Hawaii. Nobles and commoners had chosen this beautiful and bountiful area for their home sites — enticed by the area’s lush soil, abundant fresh mountain springs, and nearly perfect climate (created when gentle trade winds push the clouds mauka, toward the mountains, to collect and send down showers, as blessings, at night)

The Kipahulu District of Haleakala National Park was established in 1969, to protect its numerous endemic plants and forest birds. This East Maui park is perfect for folks seeking a tranquil and personal nature experience.

Upstream from the famous Pools of `Ohe`o is the Pipiwai Trail. One-half mile up, enjoy Makahiku Falls (185 feet). Another 1.5 miles along the trail leads to the base of Waimoku Falls, at a spectacular 450 feet. The trail passes through ancient Hawaiian taro farm sites and a non-native bamboo forest. Hikers should be extremely cautious in this area; due to rapidly changing weather patterns, flash flooding can occur with almost no warning. If you hear a loud rumbling, get away from the water quickly. You should also respect the Hawaii­an tradition that the taking of any stone from this area is kapu (strictly forbidden).

The Hawaiian word kipahulu refers to “feathered nest,” or place of the birds, because of the many migratory and forest birds that circle the valley and ridge. Pipiwai Lookout protrudes into the valley, overlooking the bamboo forest, offering spectacular views of both Waimoku and Palikea Falls. The late Samuel Pryor, a longtime Kipahulu resident, said it best when he said about Kipahulu: “If ever there was a heaven on earth, this is it.”

After Kipahulu, the road continues further around the southeast coast of the island, toward Kaupo. The road is unpaved for about four miles, so cautious driving is a must. The views of this rugged coastline are inspiring, particularly the view of Kaupo Gap. This gap was created eons ago when the active volcano of Mt. Haleakala blew away a large section of the crater rim. At the bottom of the Kaupo Gap trail, refreshments are usually available in the historic Kaupo Store accessible from the road.

There’s a sense of timelessness in Hana and the surrounding countryside. The aloha spirit of the gentle, gracious people who lived here lingers ...it’s truly Heavenly Hana.