DESTINATION: WAILUKU

Although it appears to be the quintessential American small town, Wailuku is also firmly rooted in the mix that makes Hawai‘i unique: ancient Hawaiian legends, missionary influence and sugar plantation immigrants. The seat of government for Maui County, Wailuku is framed by the verdant, majestic peaks of Hale Mahina in the West Maui mountain range and the expansive, fertile basin that connects with Haleakala crater to form the island of Maui.

Historically, Wailuku is best known for the wars that the Hawaiians of old waged in its valleys and streams. The high chief of Maui, Kahekili, launched invasions of neighboring islands by canoe from here, and in 1790, his son Kalanikupule fought a legendary battle against the fierce Kamehameha for control of the island. The Maui forces were slaughtered by the warriors from Hawai‘i and their fallen bodies clogged the stream which flows out of ‘Iao Valley. From then on, the battle was known as kepaniwai (“damming of the waters”), and the area was called wailuku (“water of destruction”).

The area’s sacred place, ‘Iao Valley, is revered for its spiritual value and spectacular natural scenery. Over 100 years ago, visitors began flocking to the valley and its famous needle peak. The lookout toward the peak is 133 steps up, or about a 30-minute walk. Cross the scenic bridge over the stream, and walk down into the grove to check out the garden of native Hawaiian plants. Sounds of the rushing stream echo off the sheer mountain sides. This is a place for calm reflection as well as invigorating hikes.

Just down the road is the Hawai‘i Nature Center, which features an interactive science arcade, gift shop and lunch counter, in addition to daily rain forest walks that are perfect for families. Next door, the attraction is Kepaniwai Park, or “Heritage Gardens.” It offers outstanding displays of the ethnic groups that make up Maui’s citizenry. Explore architectural examples and plant gardens of Hawai‘i, New England, Portugal, The Philippines, Japan, China and Korea, along with a monument to Puerto Rico. It’s an excellent picnic spot, too. Both ‘Iao Valley and Kepaniwai Parks have free admission and are open from 7 am to 7 pm daily.

Leading out of the valley and approaching Wailuku Town on the right, stop and visit Bailey House Museum & Gift Shop. It’s open daily from 10 am to 4 pm, and features a collection of missionary-era memorabilia, paintings and koa furniture, as well as displaying Maui’s largest collection of pre-western contact Hawaiian artifacts. It is also home to the Maui Historical Society and its archives of historical photos, particularly from the plantation days.

Wailuku Town itself is worth exploring on foot - there’s a large public parking lot between Market and Church Streets which is centrally located. Recently experiencing a boom period of gentrification, the old buildings are being restored to their former glory and downtown is fast becoming home to many artist boutiques, clothiers, antique and collectible shops, and several restaurants. Main Street, Market and Vineyard Streets are filled this eclectic array of vendors. A notable landmark is the grande dame of town, ‘Iao Theater, which opened in 1928 and is listed in the National Registry of Historic Places. It’s home to Maui OnStage community theater productions, which are critically acclaimed; the season runs from October to July.

On the outskirts of town near Kahului is the world-class Maui Arts & Cultural Center. The Center now serves over 227,000 people annually, and has enhanced Maui with a national and global profile as a cultural destination. For new visitors, returning visitors and part-time residents, any time of year you can happen upon one of Hawaii’s bests musical artists or authentic hula performances, see an international art exhibit or award-winning entertainers who may not tour in larger towns across America.

Wailuku and Kahului are only 25 miles from the resort areas of Kaanapali and Wailea.